How much should I pay?
As far as used, you could pay anywhere from a few hundred to several
thousand dollars. The asking price is often not proportional to it's
condition. You have to look at it carefully because the seller may
have no idea of it's actual playing condition or value.
A few tips anyone can follow in shopping for a used piano:
- Open it up and see how dirty and worn the moving parts are.
We found a piano few years ago that had set in a farm house for about
25 years. The case looked typical for it's age but the inside was
like new. This instrument had hardly been played (and probably never
tuned). It took 3 tunings to get it up to pitch and hold solid.
But it was a real bargain.
- If the hammers have deep grooves in the felt or signs of moth-eaten
felt avoid it or plan on spending $200 to have the hammers reconditioned.
- If the tuning pins (where the strings attach to the round pins) or
strings are rusty avoid it. If it looks like someone has put any liquid
on the pins (to cover rust signs) it's ready for the trash.
- If some keys don't play it could be anything from an easy fix to a
sign that other keys are about ready to break also. This one is
difficult to call and we can't always tell without a lengthy examination
of the instrument. In the majority of cases, a few keys that don't
play are a very minor problem.
- Look in the moving parts from above and below the keyboard
(If it's a vertical-style piano, remove the big board in front of your knees by pushing up on a
lever at the top of the board and tilt it toward you and lift up).
If you see any plastic pieces, this may indicate a problem potential.
There are some models that had plastic parts that will fail after some
time. If it's only the elbows, (that hook onto a wire attached to the
end of the keys) they can be replaced effectively for
about $150. If there are plastic moving parts down in the action you
better skip this one. If it's a grand piano, you will need a flashlight.
Slide out the music shelf and look down into the hammers and moving parts
noting excess wear.
- Look at the sound board (pull it away from the wall and take a
flashlight behind it) to see if there are any significant cracks.
Cracks can be dealt with to some extent. If there are any cracks, it
certainly gives you bargaining power. Cracked sound board affects
the sound but doesn't necessarily render it useless. If you see any
cracks in the sound board, you will want
to get a professional opinion before making any financial commitment
to this instrument.
- Try the keys to see if they are sluggish. If so this could cost
about $50 to $100 to remedy.
- Press the key slowly while watching the hammer. If the hammer does
not move right away, but starts moving after the key has gone down a bit,
this will require some action regulation (usually $75) to adjust each key
to respond as designed.
- Press the right pedal (sustain), play all the keys, then release the
pedal. If some of the notes keep sounding after release of the pedal
there are problems with the dampers. Damper regulation is tricky and
can be very time consuming. Cost of damper replacement varries by model.
- And finally, you may want to have a tuner/technician evaluate the
instrument. We've seen people pass a bargain by
for relatively minor problems. On the other hand, we've seen people
purchase a used instrument that cannot reasonably be repaired. Good
advice can be a bargain.